dining chair repair cost in Europe at the lowest price

Considering the high cost of repairing dining chairs in Europe, in this article we want to teach you how to do it.

By this fact, we prepare this guide to repair your chair at the lowest price.

All types of wooden furniture have their own structural problems.

With common sense and a few meticulous precautions, all wooden chairs can be kept in good condition.

Here’s how to replace loose or broken chair parts.

loose joints

The seat frame is held together by mortise and tenon joints (teeth or tongues or wood fixed in holes at the joints) or dowel joints (wooden pegs hold the parts together) and is notched to fit.

Adapt to the feet supported by a triangular adhesive block.

If you find loose joints in time, fix them with glue.

If the seal is broken, you will need to dismantle it and replace the dowel.

The triangular glue blocks are probably glued and screwed to the frame, and the studs can be supported by blind nails or screw fasteners.

Use an old screwdriver or hard-edged putty knife to carefully separate the gasket and replace the dowel.

Make sure joints are clean and dry before reassembly.

Mechanical fasteners such as corner braces or chair leg braces can be used to fix the frame.

Of course, it also depends on the value of the furniture.

Don’t devalue antiques with metal coins.

Metal stiffeners are useless unless the joints fit snugly, but they can be used to further tighten strong joints.

Fasten the brace with brass screws, making sure the screws are long enough.

loose legs, rungs, spindles

Overused wooden chairs may have loose legs, rungs, and spindles.

However, these problems can often be fixed.

Loose rungs and spindles, and loose lugs when spacers are not used, can sometimes be repaired by forcing glue into the joint.

Carefully separate the piece from the frame for a more permanent repair.

If both ends are loose, remove the entire piece.

For very stubborn joints, slightly twist the pieces to break the adhesive bond.

Use self-tightening pliers if necessary.

Pad the piece, so you don’t damage the wood with the pliers.

Carefully remove the old adhesive from parts and bushings.

Glue does not bond well with old glue.

Be careful not to remove the wood from the edges of the piece.

Otherwise, it will not fit properly.

After removing the old adhesive, test both ends of the patch with a socket.

If the ends are snug, apply glue to the socket and reinsert the loose part.

Clamp the re-glued joint and let it dry completely.

If the piece is loose in the socket, it will need to be enlarged for a tight seal.

If the edge of the tenon is cracked, it must be reinforced.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the post and wrap it tightly with silk thread.

Allow the threaded stud to dry for a day, then glue the reinforced end firmly to the socket.

Insert carefully so as not to disturb the wires.

Fix the joint and let it dry completely.

Very loose legs and rungs can be wedged if the tenons are solid.

Hold the piece in a vise or have it held by an assistant and very carefully center the end of the tenon with a saw.

The cut should be square and centered on the approximate depth of the piece that will fit into the socket (about 3/4 inch).

For small parts, use a hacksaw or coping saw to cut.

Use a back saw, or combination saw for thicker pieces.

Cut a thin wedge out of a piece of softwood (a wedge of pine, if you have one) to match the width and depth of the tenon saw. , is to oversize the post to fit the socket.

Once you are satisfied that the wedge is the correct size, carefully press the wedge into the saw cut.

Once the tenon is a little larger, stop hammering and cut off the excess wood from the corner with a utility knife or pocket knife.

Be careful not to bump the corner too much.

An excessive wedge will split the tenon.

To test the wedge, insert the end of the wedge into the saw cut and tap gently with the handle of the screwdriver.

This wedging procedure may not allow you to disassemble the cabinet.

In this case, there are two other ways to run the job.

If the seam is very loose and appearance is not important, remove as much glue as possible.

Make thin wedges from the molding – pine grating is a good choice.

Dip the ends of the wedges in the glue and hammer the wedges around the loose part between the part and the socket.

Then use a utility knife to cut the edge of the wedge flush with the surrounding wood surface.

Equalizes the pressure of the wedge as you drive it down.

If not carefully placed, shims can misalign parts, further weakening the joint.

If appearance is more important, drill a 1/16-inch hole in the joint side and the loose part.

Next, make a metal pin out of a 10d common or finish nail.

Cut off the head of the nail with a hacksaw.

Add a drop or two of glue to the drilled hole and drive the nail in.

Immerse the pin with a nail set or another 10d nail and fill the hole with wood putty.

Rear rails, spindles, and slats are broken.

On chairs with horizontal rails at the back, the rails are slotted into the side uprights.

On chairs with vertical rods or slats, these parts are mortised into curved or straight top rails.

Rails, spindles, and slats are all easily replaceable but can be quite expensive to replace.

Don’t worry if the chair isn’t worth the investment.

First, disassemble the back of the chair.

It can be joined by legs, seats, and rails.

Gently open the joint and remove any nails or screws.

Dismantle only the seals involved in the repair.

It is usually not necessary to completely disassemble a part to access it.

If you are unsure whether you can put the chair back together, number the parts as you take them apart.

Take the undamaged part similar to the broken part to the carpenter or carpenter for duplication.

Carefully remove the old glue from the gasket.

Then reassemble the chair with new parts and glue each joint.

Secure the chair with strap clamps until the glue dries before completely refinishing the chair.

Outdoor chairs which are made with wooden slats can be repaired in the same way, but the slats can usually be replaced with wide mail or thin planks.

To replace broken slats, cut and mold wider moldings or boards to fit your frame.

If the slats are screwed on, drill the screw holes in the new slats and install them with the old screws or the corresponding new screws.

If they are riveted, drill out the old rivets and replace them with self-tapping or pan-head sheet metal screws.

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